HOBBYWING XERUN XD0 Pro Brushless Electronic Speed Controller
Introduction
Congratulations and thank you for your trust in Hobbywing product. By purchasing the XERUN XD10 Pro, you have chosen a high performance sensored brushless electronic speed controller! This speed controller is equipped with high-tech features to enhance your experience with Hobbywing brushless power systems. Improper usage and unauthorized modification to our product is extremely dangerous and may damage the product and related devices. Please take your time and read the following instructions carefully before you start using your speed control. We have the right to modify our product design, appearance, features and usage requirements without notification.We, HOBBYWING, are only responsible for our product cost and nothing else as result of using our product.
WARNINGS:
- To avoid short circuits, ensure that all wires and connections must be well insulated before connecting the ESC to related devices.
- Ensure all devices are well connected to prevent poor connections and avoid damage to your electronic devices.
- Read through the manuals of all power devices and chassis and ensure the power configuration is rational before using this unit.
- Please use a soldering iron with the power of at least 60W to solder all input/output wires and connectors.
- Do not hold the vehicle in the air and rev it up to full throttle, as rubber tires can “expand” to extreme size or even crack to cause serious injury.
- Stop immediate usage once the casing of the ESC exceeds 90℃/194℉ as this may cause damage to both the ESC and motor. Hobbywing recommends setting the “ESC Thermal Protection” to 105℃/221℉ (this refers to the internal temperature of the ESC).
- Users must always disconnect the batteries after use as the current on the ESC is consuming continuously if it is connected to the batteries (even if the ESC is turned off). The battery will completely be discharged and may result in damage to the battery or ESC when it is connected for a long period of time. This WILL NOT be covered under warranty.
Features
- Built-in switch mode BEC with a maximum output of 10A and voltage adjustable from 5V to 7.4V (step: 0.1V) for usage with servos & other devices require different voltages.
- Separate PRG/FAN port is able to power an external fan for maximize cooling performance or connect a LCD program box or WiFi module to the ESC.
- Variable frequency regulation of PWM & brake frequencies allows users to precisely regulate the driving & braking forces (of the motors).
- Multiple protections: low-voltage cutoff protection, ESC and motor thermal protection, and fail safe (throttle signal loss protection),reverse polarity protection (the external standard cappack will still be damaged if battery reversal occurs).
- Data logging for recording the maximum ESC/motor temperature, motor speed/RPM, and others in real time.
- Firmware upgrade via Hobbywing multifunction LCD program box or OTA Programmer (item sold separately).
Specifications
| Model | XERUN XD10 Pro |
| Cont./Peak Current | 100A/800A |
| Motor Type | Sensored / Sensorless Brushless Motors |
| Applications | 1/10th drift car |
| Motor Limit* | Brushless Motor Limit with 2S LiPo/6S NiMH: 8.5T |
| LiPo/NiMH Cells | 2S LiPo/4-6S NiMH |
| BEC Output | 5-7.4V Adjustable, Continuous Current of 5A (Switch-mode) |
| Cooling Fan | Powered by the stable BEC voltage of 5-7.4V |
| Connectors | Input End: No Connectors; Output End: 3.5mm male plug |
| Size | 40.7×35.0×32.0mm (w/Fan) |
| Weight | 95g (w/ wires) |
| Programming Port | PRG/FAN Port |
Connections
ATTENTION: This is an extremely powerful brushless motor system. For your safety and the safety of those around you, we strongly recommend removing the pinion gear attached to the motor before performing calibration and programming functions with this system. It is also advisable to keep the wheels in the air when you turn on the ESC.
- Motor Wiring: The motor wiring is different between the sensored and the sensor less; please only follow the introductions below.
- Sensored Motor WiringThere is strict wiring order from the ESC to the motor, the three A/B/C ESC wires must connect to the three A/B/C motor wires correspondingly. Next, connect the ESC sensor port and the motor sensor port with the stock 6-pin sensor cable. If you don’t plug the sensor cable in, your ESC will still work in sensor less mode even if you’re using a sensored motor.
- Sensorless Motor WiringUsers do not need to be worried in regards to the connectivity with the A/B/C(ESC and motor) as there is no polarity. You may find it necessary to swap two wires if the motor runs in reverse.
- Receiver Wiring: The throttle control cable on the ESC has to be plugged into the throttle (TH) channel on the receiver. The throttle control cable has an output voltage of 6V/7.4V to the receiver and steering servo, hence, no separate battery can be connected to the receiver. Otherwise, your ESC may be damaged.
- Battery Wiring: Proper polarity is essential. Please ensure positive (+) connects to positive (+), and negative (-) connects to negative (-) when plugging in the battery! When reverse polarity is applied to the ESC from the battery, the external standard cap pack will still be damaged.
ESC Setup
ESC/Radio Calibration
Begin using your ESC by calibrating with your transmitter . We strongly recommend Hobbywing users to use the “Fail Safe” function on the radio system and set (F/S) to “Output OFF” or “Neutral Position”. Example of calibrating Neutral range and Endpoint.
- Turn on the transmitter, ensure all parameters (D/R, Curve, ATL) on the throttle channel are at default (100%). For transmitter without LCD, please turn the knob to the maximum, and the throttle “TRIM” to 0. Please also tur n the corresponding knob to the neutral position.
- Start by turning on the transmitter with the ESC turned off but connected to a battery. Holding the “ON/OFF” button, the RED LED on the ESC starts to flash (Note 2: the motor beeps at the same time), and then release the ON/OFF button immediately.Note: Beeps from the motor may be low sometimes, and you can check the LED status instead.
- Set the neutral point, the full throttle endpoint and the full brake endpoint.
- Leave transmitter at the neutral position, press the “ON/OFF” button, the RED LED dies out and the GREEN LED flashes 1 time and the motor beeps 1 time to accept the neutral position.
- Pull the throttle trigger to the full throttle position, press the “ON/OFF” button, the GREEN LED blinks 2 times and the motor beeps 2 times to accept the full throttle endpoint.
- Push the throttle trigger to the full brake position, press the “ON/OFF” button, the GREEN LED blinks 3 times and the motor beeps 3 times to accept the full brake endpoint.Note:
- The end position of forward: Pull the trigger to the maxim um throttle position if it is pistol-style transmitter . Push the throttle to the top if it is board-style transmitter .
- The end position of backward: Push the trigger to the maximum brake position if it is pistol-style transmitter. Pull the throttle to the bottom if it is board-style transmit ter.
- The motor can be started 3 seconds after the ESC/Radio calibration is complete.
Power On/OffAttention! The temperature of its Aluminum housing may be very high when there is heavy load. For precaution, we recommend users to have a fan blown towards the ESC.(Start with the ESC turned off), press the ON/OFF button to tur n on the ESC (the indication LED comes on); and press the ON/OFF button again to tur n off the ESC (the indication LED dies out).Note: Do not turn off the ESC when the motor is spinning. The sudden stoppage may result in unwanted damage to both the motor and ESC. If there is an emergency, battery plugs can be pulled out to switch the ESC off.
Programmable Items
| 1B | Max. Reverse Force | 25% | 50% | 75% 100% | |||||||||||||
| 1C | Reverse Delay | 0-5S | (Adjust Step 0.5S) | ||||||||||||||
| 1D | Cutoff Voltage | Disabled | Auto (3.3V/Cell) | 3.0-7.4V Adjustable (Step: 0.1V) | |||||||||||||
| 1E | ESC Thermal Protection | Disabled | 105℃/221℉ | 125℃/257℉ | |||||||||||||
| 1F | Thermal Protection | Disabled | 105℃/221℉ | 125℃/257℉ | |||||||||||||
| 1G | BEC Voltage | 5V-7.4V Adjustable (Step:0.1V) | |||||||||||||||
| 1H | Remote Off | Disabled | Enabled | ||||||||||||||
| 1I | Motor Rotation | CCW | CW | ||||||||||||||
| 1J | Phase-AC Swap | Disabled | Enabled | ||||||||||||||
|
Throttle Control |
2A | Throttle Rate Control | 1-30 Adjustable (Step: 1) | ||||||||||||||
| 2B | Throttle Curve | Linear | Customized | ||||||||||||||
| 2C | Neutral Range | 3%-10% (Adjust Step1%) | |||||||||||||||
| 2D | Initial Throttle Force | 1-15 (Adjust Step 1) | |||||||||||||||
| 2E | Coast | 0-15 (Adjust Step 1) | |||||||||||||||
| 2F | PWM Drive Frequency | 1K | 2K | 4K | 8K | 12K | 16K | 24K | 32K | 40K | 48K | Customized | |||||
| 2G | Softening Value | 0-30° Adjustable (Step: 1°) | |||||||||||||||
| 2H | Softening Range | 0% | 10% | 20% | 25% | 30% | 35% | 40% | 45% | 50% | 55% | 60% | 65% | 70% | 75% | ||
|
Brake Control |
3A | Drag Brake Force | 0%-100% Adjustable (Step: 1%) | ||||||||||||||
| 3B | Max. Brake Force | 0%-100% (Adjust Step 1%) | |||||||||||||||
| 3C | Initial Brake Force | =Drag brake | 0%-50% Adjustable (Step:1%) | ||||||||||||||
| 3D | Brake Rate Control | 1-20 Adjustable (Step: 1) | |||||||||||||||
| 3E | Brake Curve | Linear | Customized | ||||||||||||||
| 3F | Brake Frequency | 0.5K | 1K | 2K | 4K | 8K | 12K | 16K | 20K | 24K | Customized | ||||||
|
Timing |
4A | Boost Timing | 0-64° Adjustable (Step: 1°) | ||||||||||||||
| 4B | Boost Timing Activation | RPM | Auto | ||||||||||||||
| 4C | Boost Start RPM | 500-35000RPM (Step: 500RPM) | |||||||||||||||
| 4D | Boost End RPM | 3000-60000RPM (Step: 500RPM) | |||||||||||||||
| 5A | Turbo Timing | 0-64° Adjustable (Step: 1°) | |||||||||||||||
| 5B | Turbo Delay | Instant | 0.05s | 0.1s | 0.15s | 0.2s | 0.25s | 0.3s | 0.35s | 0.4s | 0.45s | 0.5s | 0.6s | 0.7s | 0.8s | 0.9s | 1.0s |
| 5C | Turbo Increase Rate (deg/0.1sec) | Instant | 3deg/0.1s | 6deg/0.1s | 9deg/0.1s | 12deg/0.1s | 15deg/0.1s | 18deg/0.1s | 21deg/0.1s | 24deg/0.1s | 27deg/0.1s | 30deg/0.1s | |||||
| 5D | Turbo Decrease Rate (deg/0.1sec) | Instant | 3deg/0.1s | 6deg/0.1s | 9deg/0.1s | 12deg/0.1s | 15deg/0.1s | 18deg/0.1s | 21deg/0.1s | 24deg/0.1s | 27deg/0.1s | 30deg/0.1s |
Note: Item 4C (Boost Start RPM) & item 4D (Boost End RPM) ar e not programmable if item 4B (Timing Activation) is set to “Auto”.
1A. Running ModeOption 1: Forward with Brake Racing mode. It has only forward and brake functions.Option 2: Forward/ Reverse with BrakeThis option is known to be the “training” mode with “Forward/ Reverse with Brake” functions. Hobbywing has adopted the “DO UBLE-CLICK” method, that is your vehicle only brakes on the 1st time you push the throttle trigger forward (brake) (1st push). The motor stops when you quickly release the throttle trigger and then r e-push the trigger quickly (2nd push), only then the vehicle will reverse. The reverse function will not work if your car does not come to a complete stop. The vehicle only reverses after the motor stops. This method is for preventing vehicle from being accidentally reversed.Option 3: Forward and ReverseThis mode is often used by special vehicles (rock crawler). It adopts the “SINGLE-CLICK” method. The vehicle will reverse immediately when you push the throttle trigger forward (brake).1B. Max. Reverse ForceThe reverse force of the value will determine its speed. For the safety of your vehicle, we recommend using a low amount.1C. Reverse DelayThis parameter is used to adjust and set the delay time when the reverse output is being applied; When the motor is at a standstill, the reverse output will be activated once the delay time of the value is reached.1D. Cutoff VoltageSets the voltage at which the ESC lowers or removes power to the motor in order to either keep the battery at a safe minimum voltage (for LiPo batteries). The ESC monitors the battery voltage all the time, it will immediately reduce the power to 50% (in 3 seconds) and cut off the output 40 seconds later when the voltage goes below the cutoff threshold. The RED LED will flash a short, single flash that repeats (☆, ☆, ☆) to indicate the low-voltage cutoff protection is activated. Please set the “Cutoff Voltage” to “Disabled” or customize this item if you are using NiMH batteries.Option 1: DisabledThe ESC does not cut the power off due to low voltage. We do not recommend using this option when you use any LiPo battery as you will irreversibly damage the product. You need to select this option when you are using a NiMH pack.Option 2: AutoThe ESC calculates the corresponding cutoff voltage for the battery shall be 6.6V.Option 3: CustomizedThe customized cutoff threshold is a voltage for the whole battery pack (adjustable from 3.0V to 7.4V).1E. ESC Thermal ProtectionThe output from the ESC will be cut off with the value you have preset.The GREEN LED flashes ( ☆, ☆, ☆) when the ESC temperature reaches to the preset value. The output will not resume until the ESC temperature gets down.Warning! Please do not disable this function unless you’re in a competition. Otherwise the high temperature may damage your ESC and even your motor.1F. Motor Thermal ProtectionThe GREEN LED flashes (☆☆, ☆☆, ☆☆) when the motor temperature reaches to the preset value. The output will not resume until the motor temperature gets down.Warning! Please do not disable this function unless you’re in a competition. Otherwise the high temperature may damage your motor and even your ESC. For non-Hobbywing motor, the ESC may get this protection activated too early/late because of the different temperature sensor inside the motor. In this case, please disable this function and monitor the motor temperature manually.1G. BEC VoltageBEC voltage can be adjusted between 6.0-7.4V. 6.0V is applicable to common servo. If use high-voltage servo , set to higher voltage according to voltage marking of servo.1H. Remote OffOption 1: EnabledUsers can simply push and hold the brake trigger for 6 seconds. This option allows the user to turn off the ESC without pushing the ON/OFF button switch.Option 2: DisabledUsers must turn off the ESC by pressing the ON/OFF switch button from the ESC.1I. Motor Rotation/DirectionWith the motor shaft faces you (the rear end of the motor is away from you), increase the throttle input, the motor (shaft) will rotate in the CCW/CW direction if the “Motor Rotation /Direction” set to “CCW/CW”. Generally, the vehicle runs forward when the motor (shaft) rotates in the CCW direction. However, some vehicles only run forward when the motor rotates in the CW direction due to the different chassis design. In that case, you only need to set the “Mot or Rotation/Direction” to “CW).1J. Phase-AC SwapIf the A/C wire of ESC connect to A/C wire of motor with crossed way (A wire of ESC connects to C wire of motor, C wire of ESC connects to A wire), set this item as Enable.2A. Throttle Rate ControlThis item is used to control the throttle response. It can be adjustable from 1 to 30 (step: 1), the lower the throttle rate, the more the limit will be on the throttle response. A suitable rate can help driver to control his vehicle properly during the starting-up process. Generally, you can set it to a high value to have a quick throttle response if you are proficient at throttle control.2B. Throttle CurveThe throttle curve parameter reconciles the position of the throttle trigger (in throttle zone) and the actual ESC throttle output. It is linear by default and we can change it to non-linear via adjusting the throttle curve. For example, if adjust it to +EXP, the throttle output at the early stage will be higher (than the output when the curve is linear); if it is adjusted to –EXP, the throttle output at the early stage will be lower (than the output when the curve is linear).2C. Neutral RangeAs not all transmitters have the same stability at “neutral pos ition”, please adjust this parameter as per your preference. You can adjust to a bigger value when this happens.2D. Initial Throttle ForceIt also called as minimum throttle force. You can set it according to wheel tire and traction. If the ground is slippery, please set a small throttle force. Some motors have strong cogging effect with lower FDR number. When you push throttle a little bit, the motor will not rotate until a higher throttle point than the default initial throttle point. When we have this parameter, we can use the transmitter trim to check the above issue and then adjust the best initial throttle point by increasing the ITF a little. The control feeling will be smoother if you find the best point. Normally the number will be not over 5%.2E. CoastThe RPM of the motor will be lowered gradually when throttle is reduced. The vehicle will not reduce speed abruptly when the throttle is reduced to return to the neutral position.The bigger the value, the more the “COAST” will be felt. Example, COAST of 0 deactivates, an d a COAST of 20% would be the maximum amount of COAST .What is COAST?When a vehicle has a larger final drive ratio, the tendency of having a “drag” feel is higher. The “COAST” technology is to allow the car to roll (coast) even when the final drive ratio is high. The Coast function brings better and smoother control feeling to racers. Some drivers will refer to this to the traditional brushed motors.Note: The “Coast” will be void (even if you set it to any value besides 0) if the above “drag brake” is not “0%”.2F. PWM Drive FrequencyThe acceleration will be more aggressive at the initial stage when the drive frequency is low; a higher drive frequency is smoother but this will create more heat to the ESC. If set this item to “Customized”, then the PWM frequency can be adjusted to a variable value (which ranges from 0K to 32K) at any 0-100% throttle input, Please choose the frequencies as per the actual test results of your vehicles.2G. Softening ValueIt allows users to fine-tune the bottom end, change the d riving feel, and maximize the driving efficiency at different track conditions. The higher the “Softening Value “, the milder the bottom end. In Modified class, drivers often feel the power of the bottom end is too aggressive. Little throttle input usually brings too much power to the car and make it hard to control at the corners, so HOBBYWING creates this softening function to solve the issue.Note: You can increase the motor mechanical timing accordingly after you set the softening value. Every time you increase the softening value by 5 degrees, you can increase the mechanical timing by 1 degree. For example, if you set the softening value to 20 degrees, then you can increase the mechanical timing by 4 degrees. Please note that you will never increase the mechanical timing by over 5 degrees.2H. Softening RangeIt’s the range to which “Softening Value” starts and ends. For example, 0% to 30% will be generated when the user pre-programs the “Softening Range” at a value of 30%.3A. Drag BrakeIt is the braking power produced when releasing from full speed to neutral position. This is to simulate the slight braking effect of a neutral brushed motor while coasting. It’s not recommended for buggy and monster truck. (Attention! Drag brake will consume more power and heat will be increased, apply it cautiously.)3B. Max. Brake ForceThis ESC provides proportional braking function; the braking effect is decided by the position of the throttle trigger. It sets the percentage of available braking power when full brake is applied. Large amount will shorten the braking time but it may damage your pinion and spur.3C. Initial Brake ForceIt is also known as “minimum brake force”. It is the force when pushing throttle trigger from neutral zone to the initial brake position. To get a smoother braking effect, the default is equal to the drag brake.3D. Brake Rate ControlIt’s adjustable from 1 to 20 (step: 1), the lower the brake rate, the more limit on the brake response. A suitable rate can aid the driver to brake his vehicle correctly. Generally, you can set it to a high value to have a quick brake response.3E. Brake CurveThis item is used for regulating the relation between the throttle range in brake zone and the brake force. The default setting is linear. You can change it to non-linear via a LCD program box and a PC (HOBBYWING USB LINK software needs to be installed on the PC.) for different braking effect.3F. Brake FrequencyThe brake force will be larger if the frequency is low; you will get a smoother brake force when the value is higher. If set this item to “Customized”, then the brake frequency can be adjusted to a variable value (which ranges fr om 0K to 16K) at any 0-100% throttle input, Please choose the frequencies as per the actual test results of your vehicles.4A. Boost TimingIt is effective within the whole throttle range; it directly affects the car speed on straightaway and winding course. The ESC adjusts the timing dynamically as per the RPM (when “Boost Timing Activation” set to “RPM”) or thr ottle amount (when “Boost Timing Activation” set to “Auto”) in the operation. The Boost Timing is not constant but variable.4B. Boost Timing ActivationOption 1: RPMIn RPM mode, the ESC adjusts the Boost Timing dynamically as per the motor speed (RPM). The actual Boost Timing is 0 when the RPM is lower than the Boost Start RPM. The Boost Timing changes as per the RPM when the RPM change is between the Boost Start RPM and the Boost End RPM. For example, if the Boost Timing is set to 5 degrees and the Boost Start RPM is 10000, the Boost End RPM is 15000. The Boost Timing corresponds to different RPM is shown below. When the RPM is higher than the Boost End RPM, the actual Boost Timing is the value you had previously set.
| RPM (Motor Speed) | <10000 | 10001-11000 | 11001-12000 | 12001-13000 | 13001-14000 | 14001-15000 | >15000 |
| Actual Boost Timing | 0 Degree | 1 Degree | 2 Degrees | 3 Degrees | 4 Degrees | 5 Degrees | 5 Degrees |
Option 2: AutoIn Auto mode, the ESC adjusts the Boost Timing dynamically as per the throttle amount. Only at full throttle, the actual Boost Timing is the value you had previously set.4C. Boost Start RPMThis item defines the RPM at which Boost Timing is activated. For example, when the Boost Start RPM is set to 5000, the ESC will activate the corresponding Boost Timing when the RPM goes above 5000. The specific value is determined by the Boost Timing and the Boost End RPM you had previously set.4D. Boost End RPMThis item defines the RPM at which Boost Timing (you specifically set) is applied. For example, when Boost Timing is set to 10 degrees and the Boost End RPM to 15000, the ESC will activate the Boost Timing of 10 degrees when the RPM goes above 15000. The ESC will adjust the Boost Timing accordingly as per the actual RPM when the RPM goes below 15000.5A. Turbo TimingThis item is adjustable from 0 degree to 64 degrees, the corresponding turbo timing (you set) will initiate at full throttle. It’s usually activated on long straightaway and makes the motor unleash its maximum potential.5B. Turbo DelayWhen “TURBO DELAY” is set to “INSTANT”, the Turbo Timing will be activated right after the throttle trigger is moved to the full throttle position. When other value(s) is applied, you will need to hold the throttle trigger at the full throttle position (as you set) till the Turbo Timing initiates.5C. Turbo Increase RateThis item is used to define the “speed” at which Turbo Timing is released when the trigger condition is met. For example, “6 degs/0.1sec” refers to the Turbo Timing of 6 degrees that will be released in 0.1 second. Both the acceleration and heat is higher when the “Turbo increase rate” is of a larger value.5D. Turbo Decrease RateAfter the Turbo Timing is activated and the trigger condition turns to not be met (i.e. vehicle slows down at the end of the straightaway and gets into a corner, full throttle turns to partial throttle, the trigger condition for Turbo Timing turns to be not met), if you disable all the Turbo Timing in a moment, an obvious slow-down like braking will be felt and cause the control of vehicle to become bad. If the ESC can disable the Turbo Timing at some “speed”, the slow-down will be linear and the control will be improved. Warning: Boost Timing & Turbo Timing can effectively improve the motor efficiency; they are usually used in competitions. Please take some time to read this manual and then set these two items carefully, monitor the ESC & motor temperatures when you have a trial run and then adjust the Timing and FDR accordingly as aggressive Timings and FDR may cause your ESC or motor to be burnt.
ESC Programming
- Program your ESC with a multifunction LCD program boxYou can program this XD10 Pro ESC via a multifunction LCD program box or via a multifunction LCD program box & a PC (HOBBYWING USB LINK software needs to be installed on the PC). Before programming, you need to connect your ESC and the LCD program box via a cable with two JR male connectors and tur n on the ESC; the boot screen will show up on the LCD. Press any button on the program box to initiate the communication between your ESC and the program box. Seconds later, “CONNECTING ESC” will be displayed, and indicates the following parameters. You can adjust the setting via “ITEM” & “V ALUE” buttons, and press the “OK” button to save new settings to your ESC.
- Program your ESC with a OTA ProgrammerThe XD10 Pro ESC can also be programmed via a WiFi module along with smart phone devices (HOBBWYING WiFi LINK software needs to be installed on the smart phone). Before programming, users will need to plug the programming cable on the OTA Programmer into the programming port on ESC and switch on the ESC. For detailed information about ESC programming via OTA Programmer, please refer to the user manual of Hobbywing’s OTA Programmer.Attention! This ESC has a separate programming port. Please don’t use the throttle control cable (also called Rx cable) on the ESC to connect the program box; otherwise the program box won’t function.
- Data CheckingThe ESC is able to record the maximum ESC temperature, maximum motor temperature, minimum battery voltage and maximum motor speed in operation. It automatically saves the recorded data to the designated area when you tur n off the ESC after a run. You can check those data via a multifunction LCD program box whenever necessary. Users need to switch on the ESC after connection between the program box and the ESC has been established. Press the “R/P” button on any “item” page followed by pressing the “R/P” button again multiple times. The following 5 item pages will be displayed circularly: Mode → ESC Temperature→ Motor Temperature → Min Voltage→ Max RPM.
Attention!
- Press the “VALUE” button on any data-recording page can get you into the next preset mode. Please note that improper operation will get you into other preset mode(s).
- Press the “ITEM” button on any data-recording page can get you to the parameter setting page of the curr ent preset mode; press the “R/P” button if you want to return to the data-recording page.
Factory Reset
- Restore the default values with a multifunction LCD program boxAfter connecting the program box to the ESC, continue to press the “ITEM” button on the program box until you see the “RESTORE DEFAULT” item, and press “OK” to factory reset your ESC.
- Restore the default values with a OTA Programmer (& HW Link APP)After connecting the WiFi module to the ESC, open the HOBBYWING WiFi LINK software on your smart phone, select “Parameters” followed by “Factory Reset” to reset the ESC.
Explanation of LED status
- During the Start-up Process
- The RED LED tur ns on solid indicating the ESC doesn’t detect any throttle signal or the throttle trigger is at the neutral position.
- The GREEN LED flashes rapidly indicating the neutral throttle value stored on your ESC may be different from the current value stored on the transmitter. When this happens, re-calibrate the throttle range.
- In Operation
- The RED LED tur ns on solid and the GREEN LED dies out when the throttle trigger is in the throttle neutral zone. The RED LED will blink slowly (to confirm with ROAR’s Sportman (or Zero Timing) rules) if the total value of Boost Timing and Turbo timing is 0.
- The RED LED dies out and the GREEN LED blinks when your vehicle runs forward. The GREEN LED tur ns solid when pulling the throttle trigger to the full (100%) throttle endpoint.
- The RED LED dies out and the GREEN LED blinks when you brake your vehicle. The GREEN LED tur ns solid when pushing the throttle trigger to the full brake endpoint and setting the “maximum brake force” to 100%.
- The RED LED dies out, the GREEN LED blinks when you reverse your vehicle. The GREEN LED tur ns solid when pushing the throttle trigger to the full brake endpoint and setting the “reverse force” to 100%.
- When Some Protection is Activated
- The RED LED flashes a short, single flash and repeats “☆, ☆, ☆” indicating the low voltage cutoff protection is activated.
- The GREEN LED flashes a short, single flash and repeats “☆, ☆, ☆” indicating the ESC thermal protection is activated.
- The GREEN LED flashes a short, double flash and repeats “☆☆, ☆☆, ☆☆” indicating the motor thermal protection is activated.
- The RED & GREEN LEDS flash a short, single flash and repeats “☆, ☆, ☆” at the same time indicating the drive mode has been automatic ally switched to sensorless mode from senored mode because of abnormal sensor signal when pairing the ESC with a sensored motor.
Trouble shooting
| Trouble(s) | Possible Causes | Solution(s) |
| The ESC was unable to start the status LED, the motor, and the cooling fan after it was powered on. | 1. No power was supplied to the ESC.
2. The ESC switch was damaged. |
Check if all ESC & battery connectors have been well soldered or firmly connected. |
| The ESC was unable to start the motor, but the RED LED on the ESC turned on solid. | The throttle cable was reversely plugged into the TH channel or plugged into wrong channel on the receiver. | Plug the throttle cable into the throttle channel (CH2) by referring to relevant mark shown on your receiver. |
| The vehicle ran backward when you pulled the throttle trigger towards you. | 1. The (ESC-to-motor) wiring order was incorrect.
2. Your chassis is different from popular chassis. |
1. Swap any two (ESC-to-motor) wires if you are using a sensorless motor.
2. There is nothing you can do if you are using a sensored motor and your chassis is different from popular chassis. |
| The motor suddenly stopped or significantly reduced the output in operation. | 1. The receiver was influenced by some foreign interference.
2. The ESC entered the LVC protection. 3. The ESC entered the thermal shutdown protection. |
1. Check all devices and try to find out all possible causes, and check the transmitter’s battery voltage.
2. The RED LED keeps flashing indicating the LVC protection is activated, please replace your pack. 3. The GREEN LED keeps flashing indicating the thermal protection is activated, please let your ESC cool down before using it again. |
| The motor stuttered but couldn’t start. | 1. Some soldering between the motor and the ESC was not good.
2. The ESC was damaged (some MOSFETS were burnt). |
1. Check all soldering points, please re-solder if necessary.
2. Contact the distributor for repair or other customer service. |
|
The vehicle could run forward (and brake), but could not reverse. |
1. The throttle neutral position on your transmitter was actually in the braking zone.
2. Set the “Running Mode” improperly. 3. The ESC was damaged. |
1. Recalibrate the throttle neutral position. No LED on the ESC will come on when the throttle trigger is at the neutral position.
2. Set the “Running Mode” to “Fwd/Rev with Brk “. 3. Contact the distributor for repair or other customer service. |
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The motor got stuck or stopped when increasing the throttle during the starting-up process. |
1. Poor discharging capability of the pack.
2. The RPM of the motor was too high, or the FDR was too low. 3. Set the “Punch/Start Mode” to a high level. |
1. Change another pack with great discharging capability.
2. Change a low-speed motor, or increase the FDR. 3. Set the punch/start mode to a low level. |
| The RED & GREEN LEDS on the ESC flashed rapidly at the same time when the throttle trigger was at the neutral position. | (When pairing with a sensored motor) the ESC automatically switched to sensorless mode
when it detected incorrect signal from Hall sensor. |
1. Check if the sensor cable is loose or poor contact issue exists.
2. Hall sensor inside the motor is damaged. |
| The motor stuttered but couldn’t start. | 1. The (ESC-to-motor) wiring order was incorrect.2. The ESC was damaged. | 1. Check if the wiring order is A-A, B-B, and C-C.
2. Contact the distributor for repair or other customer service. |
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